DMM Belay Master 2 Review

A problem that can arise when using large locking carabiners appropriate to belaying is that the carabiner can become cross loaded between the device and the harness’s belay loop, reducing its strength by up to two-thirds. Enter the belay specific locking carabiner design. While nearly every climbing manufacturer makes one; the Belay Master 2 by DMM is among the most popular of these designs intended to eliminate cross loading while belaying. To achieve this, DMM has attached a removable plastic gate that swings shut and both locks the screwgate closed and captures the belay loop, keeping the carabiner from freely rotating. The obvious best place to use this locker is while belaying at a single pitch crag or the gym. As a heavy and bulky locker, and considering the issues with the plastic gate remaining open as it hangs on your harness, we did not like using it in multi-pitch circumstances, and it is not designed to be used for building anchors or on the end of a personal anchor system.
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